Uncover the secrets of food in Normandy

A few days ago I bought some French Camembert cheese. That got me thinking about the delicious food in Normandy and just how much I enjoyed the time that I spent there. Isn’t it funny how a simple thought can send you on a journey? The food in Normandy is simple and rich because of the addition of butter, cream and cheese to much of the traditional cuisine of Normandy. This is just the kind of food that I love, decadent and indulgent. If you’re wondering what to eat in Normandy, read on.

Where is Normandy France

So, you’re wondering where exactly is this magical place called Normandy in France. Well, let me tell you all about it. Located along the northern coast of France, Normandy is a region filled with rich history and stunning landscapes. Normandy is known for its picturesque countryside dotted with charming villages and lush green fields and of course the food in Normandy.

The capital of Normandy is Rouen. It’s a historic city known for its medieval architecture, including the stunning Rouen Cathedral, and its connection to Joan of Arc

The trip from Paris is around two hours by train so Normandy is ideal for a weekend away to explore the countryside and indulge in decadent food.  The area is rich in history and features the Vikings, William the Conqueror and WWII on centre stage. Normandy was also the inspiration for many of the Impressionists with pretty pastoral scenes, apple orchards and 600 km of coastline inspiring them.

Tempt your tastebuds with the best food in Normandy

1. Normandy seafood

This coastline has some of the most important fishing ports in France. I love oysters and 21% of the oysters in France come from Normandy. Enjoying oysters that were in the ocean a short while ago is such a treat. I can still remember their briny taste so well.

At low tide, you can collect cockles and clams along the beaches. Lobsters, prawns and scallops are also plentiful. You can expect the waterfront restaurants all to serve their own unique house version of a seafood platter or assiette de fruits de mer that often includes mussels, crab and clams as well.

For great seafood, I particularly like the towns of Honfleur and Étretat, but Dieppe and Cherbourg are also popular choices.

2. Normandy Cheese

Normandy is known as the land of milk and cheese, it’s no wonder this region produces some of the most delicious varieties in France. From creamy Camembert to tangy Livarot, Normandy offers an impressive selection that will satisfy even the pickiest cheese connoisseurs.

What makes Normandy cheese truly unique is the rich flavour derived from the lush pastures where the cows graze. The fertile soil and maritime climate create ideal conditions for the grass resulting in milk with exceptional taste. Add to that the meticulous traditional production methods passed down through generations, and you have cheeses that are not just delectable but also a testament to Normandy’s cultural heritage.

Many of the cheeses are rated as AOC or appellation d’origine controlee which is a certification,  in France, for a protected designation of origin. It covers wines, cheeses, butter and agricultural products. There are strict rules in place that must be met to be awarded the AOC recognition. There are 4 types of cheese in Normandy that have the AOC certification.

The Pays d’Auge is an area in Normandy known for its cheese and this part of Normandy is heavenly if you love cheese.   Its history can be traced to the Dark Ages when cheese was made in monasteries. By the 11^thcentury the type of cheese being produced in the region were the building blocks of what we know today. The “modern” versions began to emerge in the 17^th century.

Camembert Cheese

The freshly made cheese is hard and pretty tasteless. As the cheese matures the interior becomes runny, rich and buttery and a white rind is formed. The rind is meant to be eaten with the cheese and not removed. You can also visit the village of Camembert to learn more about this delicious cheese and naturally try a few tasting samples as well. This without a doubt is one of the classic Normandy cheeses

Livarot Cheese

Livarot is matured for up to 2 months with a delicious nutty taste and is quite runny at room temperature. Each wheel is washed with brine and coloured with annatto. It slowly becomes golden in colour and little holes develop in it.

Pont-l’évêque

Pont-l’évêque has the distinction of being one of the oldest cheeses in the region and was previously called d’Angelot It has been made since at least the 12th century. It is pale yellow in colour with an orange rind and is soft, rich and creamy. It is a per cent match to enjoy with the local pears and cider.

This is another of my favourite cheeses from Normandy, but if you keep it too long it develops a very strong smell in the fridge and my husband always complains about it.

Neufchâtel

Neufchâtel cheese originated in 1035 in the village of Neufchâtel-en-Bray. I find that difficult to get my head around, especially when you think of everything that has happened in the world since then, but the cheese still remains being made, true to traditional methods.

It is a soft white cheese that comes in many shapes. The most popular is a heart shape. There is also a legend that French farm girls fell in love with English soldiers during the Hundred Years’ War and so they made heart-shaped cheese to express their love. I am not sure what happened if the soldier who received the cheese was not a cheese lover!

3. Normandy cider Route

I don’t know why, but one of the first things I do, when I arrive in France, is to buy some Normandy cider.  It is one of the Normandy specialities I just can’t get enough of when I visit. It’s so different from the English version of cider that I can’t resist it.

Some of the better brands come in bottles with a champagne-styled closure and they deliver the same satisfying pop when opened. Brut is the driest, but cider is also available in demi-sec or doux which is the sweetest of them all.

The new kid on the block is called cidre de glace (ice cider). It is made from apples that are left on the trees until winter. I haven’t had the pleasure of tasting this yet, but it’s on my list!

Cider has been around in Normandy since the 12^th century. There are also some versions that are made from pears.  

4. Calvados

Imagine sipping on a smooth, golden liquid that takes you to the picturesque landscapes of Normandy. That’s exactly what calvados offers – a taste of the region’s rich history and natural beauty in every sip. Known as the “apple brandy” from Normandy, calvados is made by fermenting and distilling apples, creating a unique spirit with an apple-forward flavour profile. It was certified AOC in 1942

5. Normandy apples

If you have never tasted a Normandy apple tart before, you must add it to your culinary bucket list ASAP! These heavenly creations will transport you straight to France with their incredible fragrance and exquisite taste.

Apart from cider and Calvados apples are used extensively in cooking as well. Tarte Tatin is another favourite of mine and one of the iconic French desserts, but other versions of apple tarts from the region also come to mind. Naturally, being in dairy country, cream and butter are also a large part of the recipes. Are you convinced yet that the food in Normandy is delicious?

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6. Crepes

Although crêpes may have originated in its neighbour, Brittany, crepes are one of the popular foods in Normandy. You will find any number of crêperies all over Normandy. Sometimes you will see them described as galettes. This means that they are made from buckwheat flour and the fillings are normally savoury.

Both versions may be simple or gourmet, but either way, they are delicious and great for a snack washed down with a glass of cider.

7. Agneaux de pré sale

Food in Normandy is full of surprises. What sets Agneaux de Prés-Salé apart from their counterparts is their diet. Traditionally, these lambs are grazed on salt marshes called prés-salés. This practice goes back a 1000 years. This natural grazing technique results in meat that boasts a delicate balance of flavours – hints of saltiness complemented by a subtle sweetness. It’s no wonder that food enthusiasts eagerly travel to Normandy to indulge in this exceptional culinary delight!

They are found mostly in the Mont Saint-Michel area, but you will also find them in parts of the Cotentin. Naturally, it is also AOC  certified.

8. Poulet de Bresse

Would you believe that a chicken can be compared to fine wine and the only one to be AOC designated? It has bright white plumage and steely blue feet. These chickens have been described as the “fourth gastronomic wonder of the world” and are highly sought after. If you want to track them down they can be found in the region of Bourg-en- Bresse.

Here’s a quick and easy recipe from Normandy for chicken and one that I make often, especially in winter. It is also freezer friendly so cook up batch a and defrost it when you’re having a relaxing day. Although it is not traditional I sometimes serve it with orzo pasta which is similar to a grain of rice in shape.

Other Normandy food specialities

9. Andouillette

Andouillette, a tripe sausage, is a traditional French sausage that is not for the faint-hearted, as it’s made from pig intestines and stomach lining. But fear not, because the combination of spices and seasoning gives it a mouthwatering taste that locals can’t get enough of.

It has a coarse consistency with chunks of lean pork intertwined with fat, giving it a mouthwatering richness that melts in your mouth. The secret to its tantalizing flavour lies in the herbs used to season it – predominantly onions, garlic, parsley, and thyme – which create an explosion of tastes with every bite.

In some ways, it reminds me of a good haggis from Scotland.

Andouille de Vire is usually served cold, thinly sliced, with fresh bread and cooked apples. Boudin noir is another local speciality made from pig’s blood, onions and pork fat. Game is also a popular choice across the region.

10. Trou Normande

If you want to taste something truly unique and mouthwatering you must try Le trou Normand! Now, if you’re scratching your head wondering what on earth this is, don’t worry, I got you covered. Le trou normand is a delightful French culinary tradition that involves taking a small break during a long meal. It is a local tradition to enjoy a shot of Calvados splashed over apple sorbet between courses. But here’s the real kicker – this shot is meant to cleanse your palate and prepare it for more food!

Sometimes the Trou Normand is just a shot of Calvados. This is the popular choice if you are having a seafood meal as it is said the avoid indigestion.

11. Marmite Dieppoise

I know that I have mentioned the Normandy seafood before, but unlike bouillabaisse which you will find on many menus across France, you won’t easily find a marmite Dieppoise outside of Normandy. I have to explain at this point that a marmite in France is a traditional potbelly-shaped casserole dish rather than the brown umami spread that is common in England.

The marmite Dieppoise originated from the town of Dieppe as you have probably guessed. The creamy broth, made with crème fraiche, cider and butter is the perfect carrier for the freshly caught seafood that blends beautifully in a deliciously hearty meal, especially on a cold winter’s day.

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What food is Normandy famous for?

Normandy is known for its rich culinary traditions, especially its cheeses like Camembert, Livarot, and Pont-l’Évêque. The region also boasts excellent seafood, particularly oysters and mussels, as well as apple-based products like cider and Calvados.

What food should I try in Normandy?

When visiting Normandy, make sure to try classic dishes like moules marinières (mussels in white wine), duck à la Rouennaise, and the sweet and indulgent tarte Tatin, an upside-down apple tart.

What are the most popular cheeses from Normandy?

Camembert is the most famous, but Livarot and Pont-l’Évêque are also staples of Normandy’s cheese-making heritage. Each offers a unique flavor profile, best paired with the local cider.

Is seafood a big part of Normandy’s cuisine?

Absolutely! Normandy’s coastal location means fresh seafood is a highlight, with oysters, mussels, and scallops being particularly popular. Dishes like sole meunière and Normandy-style fish stew are must-tries.

What food festivals are held in Normandy?

Normandy hosts a variety of food festivals celebrating its rich culinary heritage. From apple harvest festivals to cheese markets, there’s always something to enjoy.

Food Festivals in Normandy

• Fête de la Pomme (Apple Festival) – Held in October, this festival celebrates Normandy’s apples with cider tastings, apple-themed dishes, and plenty of local vendors.
• Fête du Fromage (Cheese Festival) – In Livarot, you can enjoy an entire weekend of cheese tasting and learn about the art of cheese-making.
• Scallop Festival in Port-en-Bessin – Every November, this fishing port celebrates the local scallop harvest with fresh tastings, cooking demonstrations, and even live music.
• Foire Saint-Romain (Saint Romain Fair) – While not exclusively a food festival, this fall fair in Rouen features food stalls showcasing local treats, from seafood to crepes.

The best restaurants in Normandy

Normandy has several Michelin-starred restaurants where you can enjoy world-class dining. Here are a few that you may enjoy:

1. SaQuaNa – Honfleur (2 Michelin Stars)

SaQuaNa is a standout in Honfleur, known for its inventive seafood dishes. The name itself is a blend of the words “saveurs” (flavors), “qualité” (quality), and “nature.” Chef Alexandre Bourdas expertly combines Asian influences with local Normandy ingredients, offering a unique and refined dining experience.

2. Le Manoir du Lys – Bagnoles-de-l’Orne (1 Michelin Star)

Located in a charming forest setting, Le Manoir du Lys is known for its creative and seasonally focused cuisine. Chef Franck Quinton showcases the best local ingredients, including wild mushrooms foraged from the surrounding forest. The elegant atmosphere and attention to detail make this a must-visit.

3. La Renaissance – Argentan (1 Michelin Star)

Run by Chef Arnaud Viel, La Renaissance offers a modern take on traditional French cuisine. The restaurant prides itself on using high-quality, local produce to create dishes that are both visually stunning and delicious. The inventive tasting menus highlight the region’s best flavors, with a focus on fresh seafood and meats.

Highly rated restaurants in Normandy

Le Bréard – Honfleur

Le Bréard is a top dining spot in the picturesque town of Honfleur. Known for its creative and beautifully presented dishes, the restaurant offers a modern twist on traditional Normandy cuisine. Their tasting menu highlights local ingredients, including seafood, fresh produce, and Normandy’s famous dairy products. The intimate setting makes it perfect for a special meal.

2. La Mère Poulard – Mont-Saint-Michel

La Mère Poulard is legendary, famous for its fluffy, perfectly made omelettes. The restaurant has been around since 1888, and its history is as rich as the food it serves. Located on Mont-Saint-Michel, the restaurant is a perfect place to enjoy a classic meal while enjoying one of Normandy’s most iconic views.

3. L’Atelier de Luc – Bayeux

Located in the heart of Bayeux, L’Atelier de Luc is a cozy spot with a focus on fresh, local ingredients. The menu changes with the seasons, but you can always expect to find regional delights like scallops, duck, and rich Normandy cheeses. The warm, friendly atmosphere and top-notch service make it a favorite among both locals and visitors.

No matter where you go in Normandy, your taste buds are in for a treat. From creamy cheeses to fresh seafood and the crisp bite of local cider, the region is a food lover’s dream. Whether you’re strolling through a food market or sitting down for a feast at a cozy bistro, there’s always something delicious waiting for you. So, grab a plate, try something new, and enjoy all the mouthwatering flavors Normandy has to offer. You won’t leave hungry—that’s for sure

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