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Visiting Herculaneum: The other Pompeii

You have probably never heard of the ruins of Herculaneum, but undoubtedly know about Pompeii. In fact, the Herculaneum ruins are located in the city of Ercolano, is not far from Naples and can easily be visited either as a day trip or on the way to the Amalfi Coast.

On 24 August 79 AD, Mount Vesuvius erupted, devastating the Roman towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Herculaneum was buried under around 20 metres of volcanic ash and rock. For centuries, it lay forgotten until its rediscovery in the mid-18th century. Today,the Herculaneum ruins are a popular tourist destination, with over 1.6 million visitors each year.

When I was planning my trip I looked for a simple guide to visiting Herculaneum, but most of them were really heavy going, laden with historical facts that made my head spin. I wanted something quick and easy to read, so here goes!

I have tried to give you all the information that you need to visit Herculaneum from Naples as well as how to get there from other cities. I have also included some popular tours, tickets and suggestions for where to stay in Naples and Ercolino (the town where Herculaneum is located).

The eruption of Mount Vesuvius map | © MapMaster/Wikicommons

A visit to Herculaneum is a step back in time. The town provides an insight into the daily lives of ancient Romans and how they were affected by the eruption of Vesuvius. As you walk through the ruins, you can imagine what it would have been like to live in Herculaneum all those years ago.

The town of about 6000 people lay buried for centuries. Herculaneum was covered by a molten lava flow of about 15-18 metres in depth instead of the volcanic ash that covered Pompeii. It formed an airtight seal which made the site extremely difficult to excavate. The upside of this was that it wasn’t looted. Many priceless artefacts and historical details were uncovered with the excavation that had been lost at Pompeii.

A new town, Ercolano soon was built on top of the town that lay hidden below.

Sculpture of a head found in the Herculaneum ruins
Sculpture of a head

The site was first established in the 6th Century BC. Popular mythology has it that the town was founded by Hercules hence the origins of the name Herculaneum (Roman) and Herakleion (Greek)

Unlike Pompeii, Herculaneum was a resort town for the wealthy. This is evident in the quality of the artefacts found as well as in the design of the houses, many of which are double-storied. The increased height of the buildings allowed their owners to have spectacular views over the Gulf of Naples.

Tiles wall panel inside the remains of a Roman villa in Herculaneum
The tiled wall panel in a ruined Roman Villa

From ashes to treasure, visiting Herculaneum

Herculaneum was discovered by accident in 1709 when a well was being dug. While exploring further an ancient theatre was discovered below. This led to tunnels being built and many of the treasures being looted. The humidity in the ground preserved the timber-framed wooden houses, original doors and wooden furniture. Carbonised loaves of bread were even found in the ovens.

wooden stairs found in Herculaneum Italy ruins
Stairs burnt by the lava

Herculaneum Ruins excavation

Serious excavation only began in 1927 and much of the site remains shut for exploration purposes to this day. Since 1997 a concerted effort is being made to preserve, restore and uncover more treasures from the site. It was added to UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997.

These skeletons were able to tell an interesting story, giving archaeologists the most complete information about Roman life found to date.

Another fascinating fact the archaeologists found was that about 80% of the inhabitants of Herculaneum were former slaves. Various documents were found as well as the analysis of the bones led to this conclusion. So how did they become wealthy property owners?

Slaves arrived from various destinations around the globe. If they worked hard there was an opportunity to become free slaves and eventually Roman citizens. Freed slaves could start their own businesses and begin to accumulate wealth.

The Herculaneum Skeletons

In 1981, excavations led by Dr Giuseppe Maggi unearthed skeletons at Herculaneum in boat houses near the ancient shoreline. In total around 300 skeletons were found in the Herculaneum ruins. This was a significant find as before this it was thought that most of the inhabitants had fled the city as only a few skeletons were found during the excavations. Many did, in fact, try and leave by boat but were overcome by poisonous gasses.

Before Vesuvius erupted the ground in and around the area was frequently shaken by tremors and earthquakes. Living with them became a way of life. Herculaneum was damaged by an earthquake about 20 years before Vesuvius erupted.

Towards the shoreline were numerous vaulted boat house enclosures which became a popular place to wait out the earthquakes, so when Vesuvius began to erupt the locals thought that it was just a repeat earthquake. They fled to the boat houses where they became trapped as the volcanic ash began to fall at the rate of about 1 metre per hour.

Interesting enough the skeletons found on the beach were all men, while those that were protected were women and children.

Skeletons found at Herculaneum ruins
Skeleton in the boat shed in Herculaneum

What to see at the Herculaneum ruins

As you walk along the column-lined streets it is hard to believe that what you are seeing is over 2000 years old. Many of the buildings have their original mosaic floors, artwork adorns the walls, and there are statues watching over you as you explore. This gives you an incredible insight into the daily lives of a civilisation long forgotten.

The bathhouses and a couple of the other sites sadly were closed when I visited.  It is estimated that they have only uncovered around 25% of the town. I can’t even begin to imagine what’s lying hidden waiting to be found. If what you can see now is anything to go on, it must be amazing!

Sadly lack of funding has played a significant role in the excavation process.

Herculaneum columns and walkway in the ruins
Herculaneum Ruins

Thermopolium

When you visit Herculaneum, be sure to look out for the thermopolium. These ancient Roman food stands were once a common sight in Roman cities. Today, they are a rare and fascinating glimpse into the past.

A thermopolium was a type of food stand that served hot food. They were typically located near bathhouses and temples, where people would congregate. The stands were open-air, with a counter where food could be placed on hot plates. There are countertops with holes on the surface and jars set underneath for storing the hot food.

The stands provided a convenient way for people to get a quick meal. They were also a social gathering place, where people would chat and eat together. I guess this was an early example of street food.

Thermopolium in Herculaneum ruins
Remains of a restaurant

Terrace of Marco Balbo

Marco Nonio Balbo was a patron of Herculaneum and a senator of Cyrene and Crete. When he died he was cremated and the ashes were stored in a clay container inside the marble plinth beneath his statue. If you are looking for this it is just outside the bathhouse.

Marco Nonio Balbo statue Herculaneum
Marco Nonio Balbo

The House of the Relief of Telephus

This house is thought to have belonged to Marco Balbo. It is a colourful structure with several rooms. Large discs hang between the pillars at the entrance to ward off evil. It is the second largest in Herculaneum and covers 1800 m squares, IT was filled with sculptures including a relief depicting the myth of Telephus, son of Hercules (mythical founder of the city).

Guide to visiting Herculaneum - #italy #europe #ruins #history #archaeology #southernitaly #UNESCO #heritage
The House of the Relief of Telephus

The Hall of the Augustales

The cult of Augustus was a society of freed slaves who lived in Herculaneum and were considered full citizens. Below is a photo of the temple within the hall, dedicated to Hercules, where the Augustales met. This building was a centre of the cult.

Hall of the Augustals Herculaneum
Temple of the Augustals

Sacellum of Four Gods

There were four gods worshipped in Herculaneum -Mercury, Minerva, Neptune and Volcano. The temple is dedicated to four divinities that represent manufacturing, trade and craft.

There are a couple of relief- style sculptures left.

Sacellum of Four Gods
Relief sculpture of a god

When is the best time to visit Herculaneum?

We visited the ruins over Easter in early April. I don’t know if it was because of the holiday, but the ruins were relatively deserted. The ideal time is between May and September. If possible, plan your visit in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat of the day.

How to visit Herculaneum from Naples

Visiting Herculaneum by Car

  • Visiting Herculaneum from Naples by car is easy. From the A3 motorway take the exit for Ercolano and then look for the brown road signs to Ercolano Scavi. It’s about a 20-minute drive. From Rome to Herculaneum it is about 220 km or 2 and a half to 3 hours.
  • There is a large underground car park a short distance from the entrance.

Getting to Herculaneum by train

  •  From the Naples Central Station (Napoli Garibaldi), you will need to follow the signs for the Circumvesuviana trains underground. Buy a ticket to Ercolano (or if they don’t understand tell the Herculaneum). be sure to buy a return ticket.
  • Once you have your ticket, head to the platforms. Look for the train to Herculaneum from Platform 3. Be careful as two different trains leave from this platform. One of the trains goes to Sarno and the other goes to Sorrento. It’s the Sorrento train that you need. You can always ask someone if you are not sure.
  • There is a train about every 20 minutes and depending on which one you catch the trip is about 25-30 minutes.
  • Be sure to get off at the Ercolano Scavi station. You may see signs that say Herculaneum Scavi or Scavi di Ercolano. From the station, it is about a ten- minute walk down the hill toward the sea

Pro Tip: Avoid anyone trying to sell you a ticket when you enter the station. These tickets are more expensive. Just follow the signs to the Circumvesuviana trains and buy your ticket there.

How to Visit Herculaneum from Sorrento

To get to Herculaneum from Sorrento, you can take the train from Sorrento to Ercolano. You need to take a train toward Naples. It is about a 45 – 60 minute trip depending on if you take an express train or one with more stops.

How to Visit Herculaneum from Rome

It is simple enough to visit Herculaneum from Rome as a day trip, especially if you catch a train. Take a train to Naples, then change trains and follow the instructions above for getting to Herculaneum by train.

Visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum

If you are going to be visiting both sites then you can save money by buying a 3-Day Campania Museum Pass. This covers the entrance tickets to the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, the Royal Palace of Caserta, Capodimonte Museum and Royal Woods and the Royal Palace of Naples. It also has the added benefit that you can skip the line which saves a great deal.

How Long Do You Need to Visit Herculaneum?

How long you need to spend at Herculaneum Ruins depends on how much detail you want to delve into. An average visit is about 3 hours. Remember to wear comfortable shoes as there are many places that are uneven.

Herculaneum visiting hours

  • 08h30-17h30  from 1 April to 31 October, last entrance at 18h00.
  • The rest of the year – 08h30 -17h00 with the last entrance at 15h30.
  • Closing days: every Wednesday,1 January and 25 December

Herculaneum ticket price

  • Currently, the Herculaneum ticket price is € 13.00  for an adult

Pro Tip: Pick up a map at the information stand where you buy your tickets. The maps are not available once past the ticket checkpoint and re-entries are not allowed. Another problem is that they often run out. You can download a map and information booklet from the official site. Look for “la miniguida degli Scavi di Ercolano” which is under the heading ULTERIORI INFORMAZIONI

Best tours to Herculaneum

Best places to stay in Herculaneum

Best places to stay in Naples

Additional Resources

If you want to know more about Herculaneum there is a fabulous documentary made by the BBC called Life and Death in Herculaneum. You can view it here.

In my opinion, a visit to Herculaneum is the better option if you want to learn more about life in an ancient city. Pompeii may be more popular, but Herculaneum is better preserved and provides a more intimate and fascinating experience.

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