Epic things to do in Cesky Krumlov
If you are wondering if Cesky Krumlov is worth visiting I would say that it is definitely worth a trip, even if it means going a bit out of your way getting there. There were more than enough things to do in Cesky Krumlov to keep me busy, so if you are wondering what to do in Cesky Krumlov, read on and you might also be surprised
I had heard so much about Český Krumlov, a small town in the southern Bohemian part of the Czech Republic and not all of it was good. If I had based my decision on what I had read I probably wouldn’t have visited. I would have missed seeing a beautifully restored fairytale town that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Most of the negativity is directed at the fact that the town is a tourist trap. Many people are day-trippers from Prague. I guess if you are on a tour, with a busload of people, funnelled through a tiny town, then it can become a bit daunting and no doubt frustrating.
I stopped en route to Prague for 2 nights. It was a totally different experience visiting for a day. Yes, it was busy after lunchtime, but it wasn’t jam-packed by any means and I could escape to my hotel room. Maybe it had something to do with the time of the year, just before summer, I don’t know, but I loved my visit.
What does Cesky Krumlov mean?
Cesky simply means Bohemian and the Krumlov part of the name, according to the local legend, comes from the German words Krumme Aue which means crooked meadow. It’s easy to see where the idea came from when you look at the way the Vltava River winds around the town.
Cesky Krumlov History
The town has an interesting history and was established in the 13th century. It was founded by 3 families who have left their mark on the town to this day. The last of the 3 families, the Schwarzenburgers, left the town during WWII. Over the years, this tiny town was forgotten. During WWII it was unscathed and the buildings remained mostly intact. In 1992 it became a UNESCO world heritage site and a great deal of money is still being spent in order to restore it to its former glory.
Things to do in Cesky Krumlov
I spent the first afternoon just wandering the streets exploring and deciding what things to do in Cesky Krumlov that I wanted to spend additional time exploring. This is my usual modus operandi and it gives me a feel for the town. I discovered a free walking tour, that starts in the main square, that I joined the next morning. It was an excellent choice as the guide was engaging and knowledgeable.
1. Spend time in the main square – Náměstí Svornosti
I know that it might sound a bit strange to tell you to spend time in the main square, but there are some stunning buildings to admire. You can see styles that reflect Renaissance design as well as some interesting buildings from the Middle Ages.
The name of the square translates as “Conquered Square”. In the middle of the square is the Plague Column, dedicated to the patron saints of the town as a token of thanks for the lives saved during the plague. I also came across an ornate Plague column in Vienna which had me wondering if building these columns was a regional tradition. Unfortunately, I don’t have the answer.
Another building to look out for is the Town Hall which dates from the 14th century, but these days houses the Museum of torture.
If you fancy a break or simply want to watch the world go by, there are a number of restaurants around the square that are the ideal place to people watch and maybe even grab a bite to eat.
The main square is quite busy during the day, but towards sunset, when all the day-trippers leave, the locals arrive to enjoy the space. Children play. dogs wander around and friends sit on the benches catching up on the day’s activities. It was great to see another side of the town, away from the touristy things. It somehow made the stay more relaxed.
2. St. Vitus Church
St.Vitus church is a prominent landmark on the skyline, especially at night with the lights on. It is the burial place of members of the most important families in Bohemia, including the Rosenbergs and the Schwarzenbergs. The church dates from the 13th century, but the spire was added much later. It is a long narrow building with beautiful stained glass windows. It might be small compared to many of the other churches in Europe, but it is worth adding to the list of things to do in Cesky Krumlov as it is unique.
3. The former Jesuit Seminary Regional Museum
I only mention this as a landmark, because there is a little park next to it. The views of the river from here, towards the castle, are stunning.
4. The Minorite monastery
This used to be a monastery and was famous for brewing beer. They discovered the secret of smoked beer called Nakouřený švihák or Eggenberg. Bamberg in Germany is the only other town in Europe that makes smoked beer. I, of course, naturally had to try a couple while I was in town so that I could tell you what it was like. It is made from a special malt with a full flavour and a smokiness. I could not find it anywhere else on my travels, so if you like the idea you need to try it here! If you want to delve into the history a bit more you can also do a tour of the Eggenberg Brewery.
There is an exhibition called ” Life and Arts in the Minorite Monastery” representing monastery life in the Minorite order. It also has information on the development of the complex.
If you visit the Chapel of St. Mary of Einsiedeln lookout for the replica of the Black Madonna of Einsiedeln.
5. Visit The Cesky krumlov castle tower
You can climb the 162 steps of the tower to the top for stunning panoramic views across the town. It is quite a small space, but well worth putting up with the feeling of being a sardine in a can to gaze across the red roofs and the lush fields in the distance. It is a good idea to do this first as it will give you a feeling of the layout of the town.
Tickets are cheap at 50 CZK (a little over $2) and can be combined with an entrance ticket to the castle in which case the entrance fee is 130 CZK.
6. The Cesky Krumlov Castle
The castle sits on the top of the hill, after all, where else would it be? You approach the castle via a bridge that crosses over a bear pit. Apparently, bears were kept here since 1707, but I didn’t see them. The castle is really big and there are a number of tours that you can do. You can also climb the castle tower for amazing views.
As you enter the courtyard pay special attention to the walls. They look like stone, but in fact, are painted with a special effect. When the plaster is wet the designs are created. The result has survived for centuries. Look at the windows as well. Some of them are not real and are painted just for effect to make the design look symmetrical.
OPENING TIMES OF THE CESKY KRUMLOV CASTLE
- Ceský Krumlov Castle Museum and Tower are open all year round.
- The interior of the castle is closed from November to March. During this period there are no guided tours. At other times of the year, you can book a tour.
- For updated information, you can visit the castle’s official website.
7. Stop at the Castle Café
Look out for the Apotheka Café Bar which has stunning views of the city. It’s the perfect place to grab a coffee or a local draft beer while you recharge your batteries before moving on to see more of the things to do in Cesky Krumlov on your list.
8. Enjoy staggering views from the Cloak Bridge
Construction on the 3 story bridge started in 1686 and was completed in 1765. The lower level connects the Castle Theatre and the Masquerade Hall while the upper level leads to the Castle Gardens.
Don’t miss walking across the bridge. It is undoubtedly one of the main attractions in the town
9. The Cesky Krumlov Castle Gardens
The castle gardens are really beautiful and worth taking a stroll through if you have the time. There is also an open-air theatre with a revolving auditorium that is an ongoing bone of contention. According to UNESCO it is too modern and does not fit into the landscape. Next to the auditorium is a small café which is a perfect place to stop for a smoked beer!
You also have some great views as you make your way from the castle to the gardens so if you don’t have time to climb the tower you will still have an opportunity to get some great shots of the scenery and the town below.
10. Wander through the streets of the Latrán neighbourhood
Most of the Cesky Krumlov old town is centred around the bend of the Vltava River. The castle and the Latrán area are across the river. According to legend, the castle is built on the spot where Vítkovci beat a group of bandits. As a reminder that the bandits hid there, the area was called Latrán. Latrán is also the name of the main street that runs through the area. It’s a great part of town to explore with its painted houses, cute shops, restaurants and bars.
11. Take advantage of the river
Rafting and paddling down the Vltava River are some of the fun Cesky Krumlov attractions. If you are not an adrenaline junkie but would still like to enjoy cruising down the river then you will love this 50-minute cruise along the river on a historic wooden raft. Enjoy seeing Cesky Krumlov from a different perspective while the two skippers aboard entertain you with local tales.
Where to eat in Cesky Krumlov
No matter what you feel like eating you will find something that you like and that even includes pizza. There is a huge range of cafes, bars and restaurants in town but when we travel we always choose to eat local dishes. These are some of our favourite restaurants.
Creperie MLS
You can eat Trdelník in a number of Eastern European countries. It is fascinating to watch the rolled pastry being made. The rolls are dusted with cinnamon and nuts. They are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. The trdelníks are filled with cream depending on where in the country you are. I enjoyed quite a few of them on my travels, but the one I ate at Creperie MLS was exceptional. The cone shape is filled with the softest, richest ice cream imaginable. Simply heaven! The creperie is on the main road, heading towards the castle, so it is easy to find.
Satlava
Walking through the town made me feel that I had to try something authentic for dinner. I was looking for a good restaurant. After scouring the town I discovered Satlava. It looks quite unimposing from the outside. Inside, however, was a different story. Huge chunks of meat are roasting on an open fire, so if you are a vegan I would advise you to steer clear. It is a little bit touristy, but the food was divine. If you are going to have a meal at Satlava you need to book ASAP as it is small and it does get full quickly.
U’dwau Maryi (Two Marys)
The Two Mary’s was a great find located on the river. The building is over 500 years old and you could have a meal there from day 1. The tables are designed for communal meals and styled around a medieval feast. The Old Bohemian feast menu was a hit. There are small portions of a variety of dishes that make up the “feast”. You can choose from rabbit, pheasant, smoked meat, potato dumpling and more. or try The Old Bohemian Vegetarian Feast if you are vegetarian. When I tasted the cabbage soup I was immediately reminded of a similar dish I enjoyed in Lisbon, caldo verde. Oh, and I meant to tell you that the soup is delicious.
Can you see Cesky Krumlov in one day?
You shouldn’t miss seeing this picture-postcard town if you can manage to fit it into your plans for visiting the Czech Republic. Even if it means going out of your way.
Many people visit on a day trip from Prague. It’s an easy option as I have mentioned previously but if you can spend a night in the town you get a totally different perspective. Remember this is the second most visited town in the Czech Republic so be prepared to be patient.
Book your day trip to Český Krumlov from Prague here. As a bonus, you will also get to see the charming town of České Budějovice
When is the best time to visit Cesky Krumlov?
The best time to visit Cesky Krumlov would be March, April and May or September and October when everything is still open, but there are fewer tourists around.
How to get to Cesky Krumlov
Bus from Prague to Cesky Krumlov
If you are coming from Prague a popular choice is to use an express bus. The trip takes about 3 hours. There are numerous bus companies that service the route, but I always use Flixbus. The ticket price was €5.00.
It is worth noting that there are 2 different bus stops, one on each side of the town on the outskirts. It is a good idea to get off at one and return from the other.
Train from Prague to Cesky Krumlov
Another option to get to Cesky Krumlov from Prague is to use the train, but it is a bit more complicated and you have to change along the way. You can buy your ticket on the day, but the train takes a bit longer than the bus.
Shuttle from Prague to Cesky Krumlov
Using a shuttle from Prague to visit Cesky Krumlov is an easy option. I used one from Vienna to Cesky Krumlov and it was a breeze. They are a bit more expensive than other options but they offer a door to door service which makes life so much easier.
I used CK Shuttles at a cost of around $40.
Rent a car to visit Cesky Krumlov
If you have a rental car it is an easy drive from Vienna or Prague, but the town is small and no cars are allowed into the old town centre. You can park on the outskirts which means about a 10-minute walk, but there is a fee for the parking. If you are planning on staying overnight then look for a hotel like the modern, elegant Garni Hotel Castle Bridge or the cute Pension Kristian.
Where to stay in Cesky Krumlov
There are numerous places to choose from to suit all budgets. A word of warning though, dragging a suitcase along cobbled streets is no fun! Some hotels do have a little golf cart that can move luggage for you so pack light!
Mid-range hotel
Pension Athanor is absolutely gorgeous and is an old house which has been beautifully restored. Exposed wooden beams and a colour scheme of white, grey and black with occasional pops of colour result in a classy stay that you would expect to find in London or Paris. It is 300 metres away from the castle so it’s hard to find a better spot as your base.
Apartment
The Castle View Apartments are right in the centre of town so everything you need is on the doorstep. They also offer parking about a 5- minute walk away. The apartments have wooden floors and tasteful modern furnishings. Not all the apartments have a view so check the details and when you book ask for a room with a view.
Budget stay in Cesky Krumlov
Hostel Merlin not only offers a bed in a dorm but has small twin bedrooms as well. It is excellent value for money and has a great patio with views across the river towards the city. If you are on a budget then look no further than Hostel Merlin.
Or find your perfect place to stay
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