Sticky toffee pudding and ice cream

What to Eat in London: 25+ Must-Try Dishes & Sweet Treats

London is one of those cities where you could eat three meals a day for a year and still feel like you’ve only scratched the surface. One minute, you’re tucking into a flaky salt beef bagel on Brick Lane at 2 am, and the next, you’re sipping tea from fine china at Fortnum & Mason. From crispy fish and chips by the Thames to gooey doughnuts at Borough Market, eating in London is an adventure all of its own — and I’ve rounded up the absolute musts so you don’t miss a bite.

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Easy Reference Guide

Sticky toffee pudding and ice cream
Sticky toffee pudding

Quick Picks

Your London food cheat sheet — if you only eat a handful of things, make it these:

  • ➡️ Full English Breakfast – the classic London start to the day
  • ➡️ Fish & Chips – crisp batter, hot chips, plenty of vinegar
  • ➡️ Borough Market – Kappacasein grilled cheese & Bread Ahead doughnuts
  • ➡️ Camden Market – bao buns, fried chicken & global street eats
  • ➡️ Salt Beef Bagel – the iconic Brick Lane late-night bite
  • ➡️ Brick Lane Curry – London’s multicultural food identity in one dish
  • ➡️ Sunday Roast – Yorkshire puds, roast beef & all the gravy
  • ➡️ Sweet Fix L’Eto’s cakes or EL&N Café’s pastel pastries
  • ➡️ Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason – the ultimate London tradition

    What to Eat in London: Classic British Dishes

    British food might not have the glitz of Paris or the spice of Bangkok, but in London it’s all about comfort and tradition. These are the dishes that locals grow up with. They may be hearty and a little heavy, but that’s exactly the point — they’re designed to warm you up on a damp day and leave you happily full. If you want to eat like a Londoner, this is where you should start.

    Full English Breakfast

    The full English isn’t subtle — it’s a fry-up that could floor a champion. Sausages, bacon, eggs, beans, mushrooms, tomatoes, toast… and if you’re in luck, a slab of fried bread that soaks up everything on the plate. The best way to eat it? In a proper greasy spoon café where the coffee is strong, the décor hasn’t changed since the 70s, and you’ll be rubbing elbows with builders on their tea break.

    • Tip: don’t plan anything energetic afterwards — you’ll be rolling rather than walking.
    A delicious English breakfast plate with eggs, sausage, tomatoes, toast
    Traditional English breakfast

    Fish & Chips

    There’s a reason Londoners still queue for this old favourite. The crunch of the batter, the steam rising as you break into the fish, chips doused in vinegar — it’s pure nostalgia. Forget fancy plates: the best way to eat it is out of paper, sitting by the Thames or in a scruffy park, with gulls giving you the side-eye. I once made the mistake of balancing mine on a bench for a photo… let’s just say the seagull won. Poppie’s and Fish! (kitchen) are safe bets if you want the real deal without winged competition.

    Fish! and chips
    Prize-winning fish & chips

    Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding

    Sundays in London aren’t complete without a roast. It’s not just a meal, it’s a social event. Friends pack into pubs, order pints, and wait for plates piled high with roast beef or chicken, golden potatoes, heaps of veg, and Yorkshire puddings big enough to wear as hats. Everything is drowned in gravy — and if it isn’t, you’re in the wrong place. I always say the test of a good roast is whether you can still see your food under the gravy. If not, congratulations: you’ve nailed it.

    yorkshire pudding
    Yorkshire Pudding

    Pie & Mash (with Liquor)

    Head east and you’ll stumble into London’s food heritage: pie and mash shops with tiled walls, wooden benches, and queues out the door. The dish is simple — a meat pie, creamy mash, and a ladle of green parsley sauce locals call liquor. No booze, sadly, but plenty of flavour. For the brave, jellied eels are often on offer. They wobble alarmingly and taste better than they look (though that’s not saying much). Manze’s, one of London’s oldest pie shops, still serves them — go for the history as much as the food.

    Pie & Mash (with Liquor)
    Pie & Mash (with Liquor)

    Afternoon Tea at Fortnum & Mason

    On the other end of the spectrum is afternoon tea — the most civilised way to spend a few hours in London. At Fortnum & Mason, it’s a whole production: crisp linen, silver teapots, and tiered trays that look like they belong in a period drama. Finger sandwiches come first, then warm scones with jam and clotted cream (cream before jam if you want to start a debate), and finally an array of cakes that you’ll swear you can’t finish… until you do. It’s indulgent, it’s tradition, and it’s as London as Big Ben.

    Classic London afternoon tea with scones and sandwiches
    Afternoon tea

    London Specialities

    London is a patchwork of cultures, and nowhere is that more obvious than on the plate. Some dishes are so woven into the city’s story that they feel just as London as Tower Bridge or the Tube map. From Brick Lane curries to late-night bagels, these are the foods you simply can’t leave without trying.

    Chicken Tikka Masala

    It might be an Indian-inspired dish, but chicken tikka masala is about as British as it gets. Legend has it that it was invented in the UK, and London has fully claimed it as its own. Creamy, spiced, and best mopped up with naan, it’s a reminder that “British food” doesn’t stop at roasts and puddings. Some swear by curry houses on Brick Lane, but I think you’ll get a richer experience venturing to Southall or Tooting, where family-run restaurants pack serious flavour.

    Tip: If you’re not sure what spice level to go for, ask the waiter — London curry houses are pros at tailoring it.

    Chicken Tikka Masala with rice and naan
    Chicken Tikka Masala

    Brick Lane Curry

    Speaking of Brick Lane — this street has been the go-to for a curry in London for decades. The neon signs, the touts promising “best curry in London,” and the menus full of tikka, korma, and vindaloo are part of the experience. Is it touristy? Absolutely. But tucking into a curry here, surrounded by the buzz, is almost a rite of passage. If you want something less staged, though, head a little off-piste — Dishoom does an excellent modern take.

    Thali in Brick Lane
    Brick Lane Curry

    Salt Beef Bagel

    Few things taste better at 2am than a salt beef bagel from Brick Lane’s famous Beigel Bake. The chewy, still-warm bagel stuffed with thick slices of salt beef, mustard, and pickles is an East End legend. There’s usually a queue, but it moves quickly, and half the fun is people-watching as Londoners from all walks of life shuffle in for their midnight snack

    • Pro tip: don’t skimp on the mustard unless you’re afraid of a good nose-tingle.
    Bagel Bake sign
    Bagel Bake

    Jellied Eels

    This is where things get divisive. Jellied eels are an East End tradition dating back to the 18th century, when they were cheap and plentiful in the Thames. Today, they’re not everyone’s idea of a treat (wobbly, salty, a little odd), but trying them earns you serious London food cred. If you’re curious, pie and mash shops still serve them. I’ll be honest — I tried them once and haven’t rushed back, but it’s one of those “tick it off the list” moments. Order a small portion alongside pie and mash. That way, if you can’t face finishing them, you’ve still got something comforting to fall back on.

    Eton Mess

    Strictly speaking, this dessert has its origins at Eton College, but it’s become a summer staple in London too. Strawberries, meringue, and whipped cream collide into a glorious mess that’s far tastier than it looks. You’ll see it on plenty of menus when berries are in season, but I like to think of it as the playful cousin of more polished British desserts. I love it and make it often when the strawberries are at their juiciest.

    Tip: If you fall in love with it, recreate it at home — all you need are shop-bought meringues, cream, and fruit. Easy win.

    Eton Mess dessert with strawberries and meringue

    Street Food & Markets

    If London has a heartbeat, you’ll find it in its markets. These are the places where you can wander for hours, nibbling as you go, and still feel like you’ve missed half the stalls. From legendary doughnuts to bao buns and craft brews, the city’s street food scene is as international as the people who call it home.

    Borough Market

    Borough Market is foodie heaven, plain and simple. is foodie heaven, plain and simple. The air is thick with the smell of sizzling cheese, baked bread, and coffee being pulled by baristas who know their stuff. I still can’t walk past Kappacasein’s toasted cheese sandwich without giving in — it’s molten, stringy perfection. And don’t leave without a Bread Ahead doughnut (the custard one if you ask me). Stalls selling fresh oysters, handmade pasta, and spices from every corner of the world turn it into a sensory overload — in the best way possible.

    • Tip: Go hungry, go early, and don’t try to resist the samples — you’ll regret it.

    ➡️ Read my full Borough Market guide

    Bread Ahead custard doughnuts
    Custard Doughnuts at Borough Market

    Camden Market

    If Borough is polished, Camden is wild. Steam rises from woks, music blasts from nearby shops, and the smell of fried chicken, bao buns, and churros hangs in the air. You can eat your way across continents in an afternoon — Venezuelan arepas, Korean corn dogs, vegan Ethiopian platters, Dutch pancakes — all within shouting distance of each other. Grab a seat by the canal with whatever you’ve chosen and watch the world go by. It’s a little chaotic, a little grungy, and a lot of fun.

    ➡️ More on Camden Market here

    Dutch pancakes Poffertjies at CAmden Market
    Dutch pancakes, Camden Market

    Maltby Street Market

    Maltby Street is like Borough’s younger, cooler cousin. Tucked beneath old railway arches in Bermondsey, it feels more low-key and local, with stalls serving everything from gooey raclette and artisan doughnuts to small-batch gin cocktails. There’s less elbowing through crowds, more time to actually chat to stallholders and discover something new. Come here for a lazy Saturday wander, and you’ll leave feeling like you’ve discovered one of London’s best-kept foodie secrets.

    Maltby Street Market
    Maltby Street Market

    Southbank Centre Food Market

    Weekends on the Southbank are a blur of buskers, skaters, and food stalls sending up clouds of spice and smoke. It’s not just a place to grab lunch — it’s part of the whole riverside vibe. The line-up changes regularly, but expect everything from Indian dosas to Mexican tacos, plus craft beer taps and indulgent desserts. On a sunny afternoon, it feels like a mini festival, with people spilling onto the steps and benches, balancing boxes of food while the Thames glitters just beyond.

    Wahaca Southbank food truck
    Southbank food truck

    Sweet Treats & Bakeries

    London isn’t all about pies and curries — it also has a serious sweet tooth. From gooey doughnuts to pastel-hued cafés that look made for Instagram, this is where the city shows off its playful side. Even if you don’t think you’re a dessert person, trust me… London will change your mind.

    Bread Ahead

    These doughnuts have a fan club, and for good reason. Pillowy soft, sugar-dusted, and filled with custard or jam that dribbles down your chin in the best way possible — they’re worth the queue. You’ll find them at Borough Market (and other spots around the city), but the market stall is the classic.

    EL&N Café

    If pink flower walls and gold cutlery are your thing, EL&N Café delivers. It’s unapologetically pretty, with cakes and coffees that are as photogenic as they are tasty. Yes, it’s a bit of a scene, but that’s part of the fun. Sit back with a latte and a slice of pistachio cake, and you’ll see why it fills Instagram feeds.

    Creative drinks at EL&N topped with passion fruit and edible flowers
    Creative drinks at EL&N

    L’Eto

    Walk past a L’Eto display and I dare you not to stop. Towers of pavlovas, glossy cheesecakes, and colourful tarts line the windows like edible art. Their cakes are decadent without being fussy, and it’s the kind of place where you’ll end up ordering more than you meant to. My advice? Bring a friend so you can share a couple of slices.

    L’Eto London Small fruit tarts
    L’eto London, Small fruit tarts

    Pierre Hermé

    Known as the “Picasso of Pastry,” Pierre Hermé’s creations are almost too beautiful to eat. His macarons go beyond the usual flavours — think passionfruit and milk chocolate, or rose and lychee. The boutique in Covent Garden feels more like a jewellery store than a bakery, with rows of delicate, jewel-toned sweets that make Ladurée look old-fashioned.

    Pierre Hermé LOndon window
    Pierre Hermé window in London

    Global Flavours in London

    One of the best things about eating in London is that you can travel the world without ever leaving the city. Decades of immigration have shaped its food culture, and today you’ll find everything from dim sum to jollof rice, shawarma to pierogi — all cooked by communities who brought their traditions with them. These dishes aren’t “London versions” of something else; they’re an essential part of what the city tastes like..

    Dim Sum in Chinatown

    Step under the red lanterns of Chinatown and you’ll find steaming baskets of dumplings stacked high. Har gow, siu mai, char siu bao — it’s the kind of food that’s best shared with friends. For something modern and elegant, Yauatcha nails it every time (and the patisserie counter is dangerously tempting). If you want a proper Chinatown experience, Dumpling’s Legend is famous for its soup dumplings, and you can even watch the chefs hand-roll them through the glass window. Personally, xiaolongbao are my weakness — that burst of hot broth gets me every time.

    Xiaolongbao  in a bamboo steamer
    Xiaolongbao

    Nigerian Jollof in Peckham

    Peckham has become a hub for West African food, and nothing sums it up better than jollof rice. Spiced, smoky, and vibrant orange, it’s the kind of dish that wins people over instantly. 805 is a long-standing favourite, while Enish serves hearty plates alongside suya and pepper soup. Order jollof with fried plantain — the sweet-savoury combo is spot on.

    Tip: Try jollof with fried plantain — it’s the perfect sweet-savoury combo.

    Jollof Rice with Chicken skewers
    Jollof Rice with Chicken Skewers

    Lebanese Shawarma on Edgware Road

    By night, Edgware Road is alive with the smell of garlic, grilled meats, and flatbreads hot from the oven. Shawarma here is a late-night ritual: juicy chicken or lamb shaved from the spit, wrapped up with salad, pickles, and a generous swipe of garlic sauce. Al Arez and Maroush are classics, but half the fun is following your nose and picking the busiest spot.

    Shawarma
    Shawarma

    Polish Pierogi in Ealing

    West London’s Polish cafés and bakeries mean pierogi are never far away. These dumplings — filled with potato and cheese, mushrooms, or sauerkraut — are the definition of comfort food. Boiled or pan-fried, they arrive with a dollop of sour cream that makes them even better. Polka Kitchen in Ealing is a safe bet, but honestly, any little Polish deli will likely serve them just like you’d find in Warsaw.

     pierogi
    Making pierogi

    Indian Fine Dining

    London is home to some of the best Indian restaurants outside of India. Gymkhana and Trishna are Michelin-starred institutions, serving refined takes on curries, kebabs, and biryanis. But if you can’t snag a table, Dishoom is a brilliant alternative — their black daal and bacon naan are the stuff of legend. Indian food in London isn’t just a meal, it’s part of the city’s story.

    Tip: Dishoom opens early — grab a bacon naan roll for breakfast and skip the queues later in the day.

    My Favourite Places to Eat in London

    London’s restaurant scene is huge, but certain places have shaped how the city eats. These are the spots that chefs talk about, food writers revisit, and locals rely on when they want something genuinely good.

    Dishoom

    Part Bombay café, part modern London institution. Dishoom’s strength is consistency — smoky grills, deeply spiced curries, and a black daal that simmers for 24 hours. The flavours are bold but balanced, and the atmosphere manages to feel warm even when it’s packed (which is always). Breakfast is a quiet triumph: the bacon naan roll deserves every bit of its cult status.

    Dishoom Shoreditch brunch with bacon naan roll, chutney, and masala chai
    © Dishoom Naan roll

    St John

    Few restaurants have had such an influence on British food. St John’s nose-to-tail philosophy is often talked about, but it’s the precision that sets it apart — clean flavours, perfect roasting, and a kind of confident simplicity that’s deceptively hard to pull off. The roast bone marrow has become a London rite of passage, but everything from the bread to the puddings is quietly exceptional.

    Padella

    Padella is a reminder that excellent food doesn’t need to be complicated. The menu is short and focused; the pasta is rolled, cut, and cooked with the kind of care you usually only see at much higher price points. The beef shin ragu pappardelle is the obvious hero, but even the simplest dishes — like the cacio e pepe — show real skill. Go early to avoid the queue.

    Flat Iron

    An outlier in central London: a steak restaurant that’s genuinely affordable without cutting corners. The meat is well-sourced and properly rested, the sides are thoughtful, and the atmosphere has the relaxed confidence of a place that knows exactly what it does well. If you want something satisfying after a day of exploring, Flat Iron is the reliable option.

    Hoppers

    Hoppers brings the flavours of Sri Lanka and South India into a London setting without diluting their character. The namesake hopper — a crisp, bowl-shaped pancake with a soft centre — is perfect with a runny egg, but the real joy is in the small plates: fiery sambols, rich karis, and bright, layered spices that unfold with every bite. It’s lively, confident cooking that stands out even in a crowded restaurant scene.

    Beigel Bake

    This East End staple barely needs an introduction. The salt beef bagel is one of London’s great comfort foods — chewy, warm, and stacked with tender meat and mustard that clears your sinuses in the best possible way. It’s rough around the edges, always busy, and absolutely essential.

    Eating in London: What It’ll Cost You

    • Full English breakfast at a café – £8–£12
    • Fish & chips at a proper chippy – £12–£15
    • Sunday roast in a pub – £18–£25 (more in gastropubs)
    • Salt beef bagel (Brick Lane) – about £6
    • Afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason – from £75 per person
    • Street food at Borough or Camden – £6–£10 per dish

    London can be pricey, but mixing markets, pubs, and the occasional splurge balances it out nicely.


    Quirky & Only-in-London Experiences

    Some meals in London are about more than just what’s on the plate. They’re about the theatre of it all — the setting, the history, or the sheer novelty factor. From dining in a glass igloo by the Thames to tucking into a pie where Charles Dickens once ate, these are the experiences you won’t find anywhere else.

    Historic Pubs

    London’s pubs are more than drinking dens — many are historic landmarks in their own right. Some date back centuries, with low ceilings, crooked beams, and plenty of stories. Order a pint and a pie at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1666) or The George Inn (a favourite of Shakespeare), and you’re essentially time-travelling with your dinner.

    Afternoon Tea on a Bus or Boat

    If Fortnum & Mason is tradition, this is tea with a twist. Imagine nibbling on scones while a double-decker bus trundles past Big Ben, or sipping Earl Grey as you float along the Thames. Companies like BB Bakery run these themed teas, and while the sandwiches may wobble as the bus takes a corner, the novelty more than makes up for it.

    Rules – London’s Oldest Restaurant

    Opened in 1798, Rules in Covent Garden is the city’s oldest restaurant, and it still oozes old-world glamour. Think velvet banquettes, hunting paintings, and a menu of hearty British classics like game pies and puddings. It’s the sort of place where you half-expect Dickens to wander in mid-meal — and honestly, he probably did.

    Simpson’s in the Strand

    Once famous for carving roast beef from silver trolleys wheeled straight to your table, Simpson’s has fed everyone from Winston Churchill to Sherlock Holmes (in the novels, at least). Today it’s more polished, but still has that old-school London feel. Go for the roast or the suet puddings, and soak up the sense of dining in history.

    Dining Igloos by the Thames

    London takes al fresco dining to a whole new level with its riverside igloos. Glass domes pop up along the Thames (often in winter), giving you skyline views while you tuck into dinner under fairy lights. It’s romantic, slightly surreal, and surprisingly cosy — as long as you don’t mind people peeking in as they stroll past.

    London restaurant igloo
    London igloo

    ⭐ New & Trendy Restaurants in London

    If you want something a bit fresher than the classics, these are the spots everyone’s talking about right now:

    Paradise (Soho) – Sri Lankan flavours with big personality; the small plates change often and never disappoint.
    Milk Beach (Soho & Queen’s Park) – Aussie brunch vibes meet London cool; great coffee, great plates.
    Honey & Co. (Bloomsbury) – Colourful Middle Eastern cooking with big local foodie appeal.
    Counter 71 (Shoreditch) – One of London’s hottest tasting menus right now; creative, refined, and very London-now.
    Manteca (Shoreditch) – Nose-to-tail pasta spot turning out some of the best hand-rolled pasta in the city.

    Want to explore London by eating your way through it?

    Here are the food tours I rate — fun, tasty, and a great way to get your bearings in the city. You can also check out my guide to the best London food tours

    London’s Best Bites: Soho & Chinatown Food Walking Tour

    A fun, flavour-packed introduction to two of London’s liveliest food districts, with plenty of tastings along the way.

    Thames Dinner Cruise

    A relaxed way to see London sparkle at night, with dinner served as you sail along the river.

    • Three-course meal with sweeping skyline views
    • Live music in a cosy, easygoing setting
    • Great choice if you want something speciall
    • ➡️ Reserve your table on the river

    Afternoon Tea Bus with Panoramic Tour of London

    Classic afternoon tea served on a vintage double-decker bus as it rolls past Big Ben, Westminster, and the Thames.

    Food Tour in Borough Market

    A guided walk through London’s most iconic market, taking you straight to the stalls worth your appetite.

    • Hot dishes and sweet treats from top traders
    • Great mix of British and global flavours
    • Perfect for market lovers and street-food fans
    • ➡️ Book your Borough Market tour here

    London Traditional Scone Making Workshop

    A hands-on baking session where you’ll learn to make favourite British treats like scones, cakes, or pastries.

    • Hands-on scone making from scratch in a friendly workshop setting
    • Sample your creations right away — plus take some home later
    • Great activity for rainy days, couples, or a relaxed foodie afternoon
    • ➡️ Book the scone-making class

    Where to Stay in London for Food Lovers

    If you want to base yourself close to great restaurants, markets, and late-night bites, these neighbourhoods make exploring London’s food scene incredibly easy — and I’ve stayed in some brilliant London hotels over the years. Have a look at my Luxury London hotel guide or the Cool and Quirky picks for further inspiration.

    Soho

    Right in the heart of London’s food scene, with late-night eats, bakeries, restaurants, and cafés on every corner.
    • Great for first-time visitors
    • Walkable to Chinatown, Covent Garden, Leicester Square
    • Packed with bars, cafés, and casual dining
    ➡️ Check hotels in Soho

    London Bridge (Borough Market)

    Ideal if you want your mornings to start with fresh coffee and doughnuts and your evenings with riverside dinners.
    • Steps from Borough Market
    • Easy Tube links to the rest of London
    • Great mix of boutique and modern hotels
    ➡️ See hotels near Borough Market

    Covent Garden

    A lively, central neighbourhood that’s full of restaurants, theatres, wine bars, and classic London charm.
    • Walkable, safe, and buzzing
    • Tons of options for eating out
    • Close to museums and West End shows
    ➡️ Find hotels in Covent Garden

    FAQs About What to Eat in London


    What food is London famous for?

    London is known for a mix of British classics — fish and chips, Sunday roasts, full English breakfasts — and multicultural icons like chicken tikka masala, salt beef bagels, dim sum in Chinatown, and curries on Brick Lane.

    What are the must-eat foods in London?

    A full English, fish and chips, a Sunday roast, afternoon tea, a Brick Lane curry, a salt beef bagel, and something sweet from Bread Ahead or L’Eto. That combo gives you the perfect “London on a plate” introduction.

    What dessert should I try in London?

    Sticky toffee pudding is the crowd favourite year-round. In summer, Eton Mess pops up everywhere. For something modern, Bread Ahead’s custard doughnuts or L’Eto’s huge cakes never disappoint.

    What’s the best food market in London?

    Borough Market is the classic choice for high-quality produce and iconic bites. Camden Market is great for cheap global street food, and Maltby Street Market is perfect if you want something smaller and more local.

    Is street food safe in London?

    Yes — London’s markets and street-food stalls follow strict hygiene rules. Stick to busy spots like Borough, Camden, Southbank, and Maltby Street, where turnover is fast, and everything is freshly cooked.

    What is the most iconic British dish to try in London?

    Fish and chips still win. A proper chippy with crisp batter, fluffy chips, and lashings of vinegar is one of the most London things you can eat.

    Where can I eat on a budget in London?

    Camden Market, Southbank Centre Food Market, and Brick Lane are brilliant for affordable street food. Beigel Bake’s salt beef bagels are cheap and legendary. Pub pies and roasts also offer great value.

    What’s the best area in London for food?

    Soho is the all-round winner — packed with restaurants, bars, bakeries, and late-night eats. Chinatown, Covent Garden, and London Bridge (Borough Market) are also top choices for easy food exploring.

    Where can I find the best curry in London?

    Brick Lane is the most famous area, but for richer flavours and more local spots, head to Tooting, Southall, or Whitechapel. Dishoom is a brilliant modern option if you prefer something stylish.

    What drink should I try in London?

    A pint of cask ale in a historic pub is a must, but London is also huge on gin — lots of distilleries offer tastings. In summer, locals sip Pimm’s; in winter, mulled wine from markets is everywhere.

    Eating in London is half the fun of being here — from markets and street snacks to proper British comfort food and sleek modern restaurants. It’s a city where every neighbourhood has its own flavour, and exploring it one bite at a time is the best way to get to know it.

    ⭐ EXPLORE MORE LONDON

    More London ideas to inspire your next wander — markets, food, quirky corners, and classic must-sees.