Hampi is a small town in Karnataka, India and the Hampi ruins have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. The area is vast and covers an area of about 26 sq km. There are hundreds of ruins and quite honestly I found it all a bit bewildering at first. It is also worth noting that the ruins of Hampi are still an ongoing project and are still being excavated by the Archaeological Survey of India.

The Hampi Ruins History

The history of Hampi dates back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries. Hampi is a sacred city and is supposed to be the birthplace of Hanuman, an important Hindu monkey god. Up until the 14th century, it was prosperous and part of the Vijayanagara Empire (the Karnata Kingdom). A battle started in January 1565 and over a period of 5 months, the city was destroyed.

The bewitching ruins of Hampi look a bit like a movie set, a forgotten world that captivates you the moment you set eyes on it. As you walk through the boulders precariously balanced you can imagine a giant as carelessly tossing them as pebbles on a riverbank. Amongst these rocks are ancient temples and relics that create interesting silhouettes on the landscape.

The 3 areas of Hampi

• The Hampi Bazaar-an enclave of ghats and temples
• The Royal Enclosure – Stables for elephants, the remains of the royal palace and pavilions
• The Anegundi village is older than Hampi and is situated on the northern bank of the Tungabhadra River.

Virupaksha Temple: Living Shiva Temple of Hampi

The magnificent Virupaksha Temple is located on the south bank of the Tungabhadra River and is the focal point of the Hampi Bazaar area. It is one of the oldest structures in the complex. Virupaksha is a form of Lord Shiva the Hindu God of Destruction. The temple’s history is uninterrupted from the 7^th century, however, the Virupaksha-Pampa sanctuary existed even before that. Inscriptions have also been found from the 9^th and 10^th centuries. The temple is still in use and you can witness the daily temple rituals in the mornings and evenings. The temple opens before sunrise and closes at sunset.

Sasivekalu Ganesha

In Hindu mythology,  the God Ganesha loves his food. Legend has it that one day he ate so much food he was unable to contain his stomach from bursting,  He grabbed a snake and tied it around him to stop exploding. You can clearly see this depiction on the statue. This amazing statue is carved out of a single boulder and measures 2.4 metres (approx. 8 feet). It is housed in an open pavilion built around the statue which was built by a trader in 1506.

The Hampi Bazaar

The new bazaar area is an interesting area to wander through. It is vibrant and filled with woven bags, colourful fabric and bright t-shirts wherever you look. There are heaps of dry coloured powders called “gulal,” colours when mixed with water are called “rang.”  During the festival of Holi, people carry powders and liquid colours to throw and smear on the clothes and faces of neighbours and relatives.

If you keep your eyes open you may even see an elephant wandering through the Hampi ruins or even the Hampi Bazaar.  I am certain you will also meet the “magic man” strolling around town. Apparently, there are a couple of them, but I only saw one.

The Vittala Temple

The Vittala Temple was built in the 15^th century. Despite the fact that it is ruined it still represents the highest achievement of art of the Vijayanagara. Over the years the temple complex has had various additions. The temple is in a rectangular courtyard. The temple is known for its musical pillars which are intricately carved with animals and mythological creatures. These days, to avoid damage, only the guides are allowed to demonstrate this. Although this was interesting the highlight for me was the stone chariot. The Chariot is, in fact, a shrine to Garuda and is magnificently decorated.

The Lotus Mahal

The Zanana Enclosure was a private area reserved for royal women. The Lotus Mahal is to be found within the area of the Royal Enclosure. It is a stunning building and as the name indicates it is designed in the shape of a lotus bud and resembles a half-opened flower. It is a two-storied building, with tall elegant arched windows. The decoration on the building is a mixture of Hindu ornamentation and Islamic influences.

The Elephant stables at the Ruins of Hampi

No prizes for guessing that it was here that the royal elephants were housed. Each chamber can hold 2 elephants. There is also a small door for the mahout (elephant minder) to enter. The building has 11 domed chambers. It was built in the 15^th century in the same style as the Lotus Mahal.  It is a perfect spot to sit on the lawn and contemplate the magnificence of the architecture.

Pushkarini stepped well

The water storage tank or Pushkarini (temple tank) can be found in the middle of Hampi near the Mahanavami Platform. The importance of the stepwell is that it was fed by aqueducts. It was used by travellers, for worshipers going to the temple and for domestic use as well.  This one was excavated in the 1980s and lovingly restored. It is geometric in design and the simplicity creates striking patterns.

 Go on a coracle ride

A coracle, or Dongi, is a plate-shaped basket made of reeds and bamboo. The bottom is strengthened with additional layers of hide, plastic and sometimes tar to ensure it is sturdy and waterproof. They normally take about 6-8 people and are used for crossing the river in Hampi much like a ferry. It is however only intrepid travellers that cross the river for fun.

Where to watch the sunset over the ruins of Hampi

As the sun begins to set the giant boulders start to change colour. Watching the sunset over the Hampi ruins is special and one of those iconic moments that you won’t forget in a hurry.

These are the best places to catch the sunset

• Matanga Hill is the highest point of Hampi. It is near the Hampi Bazaar and close to the Achyutaraya temple at Nimbapura. It is about a 30-minute climb. Look out for the stairs that lead to the peak in around 20-minutes. It is also a good spot to watch the sunrise.
• Anjanadri Hill is supposed to be where Hanuman, the monkey god was born. To get to this spot you will have to cross the river so be sure to allow yourself enough time to get there.
• Hemakuta Hill is the easiest climb and I must admit the spot I went to and watched the sunset over the Hampi ruins.

Getting to Hampi India

By Air: The closest airport to Hampi is Hubli Airport situated 144km ( 92 miles) away. it is also worth checking if flights to Jindal Vijaynagar Airport, just 15 miles away, have resumed.

By Train: The closest railway station to Hampi is Hospet Junction situated 12km away.  Hospet is connected via train from across the region, however, booking trains in India can be tricky.  It is advised to book well in advance and even then you aren’t always guaranteed a ticket. Do yourself a favour and ask about the first-class fare. It is worth every penny!

Transport is easily available at Hospet to take you to Hampi. The train ride itself is a story about cockroaches in my hair, a fabulous thali bought from a vendor on the train and a number of aggressive men dressed as women with extremely bad makeup. OH, and how could I forget the toilet that was little more than a hole in the train? All of these things, however, are merely part of the experience and you have to take it in your stride or else you may just as well stay at home.

By Bus:  Hampi is accessible by bus from a number of destinations across India.    Most will drop you in Hospet, located 10km away. To check routes, timetables and ticket prices I suggest that you use Redbus.  I have been told that they are extremely reliable.  They are one of the few companies that will accept an International card to pay for your ticket.

Transport in Hampi

• Rent a bicycle or a moped – There are loads of shops, especially around the Hampi bazaar area. Rental shops normally open around 8 am. The rates vary depending on the season, but a bicycle rental is around Rs 150 per day while a moped costs Rs250 per day and a scooter Rs 350, with an additional cost for fuel.
• You can hire an autorickshaw for the day, but I am not sure of the cost. I think it was around Rs 900 for the day, but I am not 100% certain.

What is the best time to visit Hampi?

The best time to visit Hampi is from October to February when the weather is dry and not too hot.  We visited Hampi in December and the weather was perfect. It is not advisable to visit Hampi during the summer months when the thermometer can climb to a very hot 27°C-37°C. Visiting during the monsoon months of July to September is not a good idea either.

Top tips for your visit to the Hampi ruins

• Wear comfortable clothes and shoes. You can walk a long way over the course of a day
• Respect the local culture. Dress appropriately if you are going to visit the temples. I always carry a lightweight wrap that I can use as a coverup if I need to. Female travellers are advised to cover their shoulders and up to their knees, and no short shorts or mini skirts. It also will help you avoid any unwanted attention. Men should just avoid wearing vests or tank tops.
• Be aware of scams and pickpockets are common in the bazaar area
• ATMs – There are none of these in Hampi so carry a bit of cash. Things are not expensive so you don’t need much money. If you need to you can get money from one of the moneychangers, but they will charge you a fee.
• Internet, WiFi and mobile coverage are spotty especially closer to the river.
• Water – there are places in town to fill up water bottles for a small fee, but quite honestly I would only drink bottled water. Be sure to check that the seal is in place. This is one of my top tips about how to avoid Delhi belly and eat street food safely
• You can see Hampi in 2 days, but it is better to hire a guide.

Visit Hampi from Goa

If you don’t want to negotiate the Indian public transport system then an easy way to see the ruins in Hampi is to book a tour. Another thing that I learnt about travelling around in India was it is a good idea to book better accommodation than you might normally book This tour includes a night in a 4-star hotel. In the scheme of things it makes visiting Hampi easy and is well worth the money.

Book: Hampi 2-Day Sightseeing Tour from Goa

Where to stay in Hampi

Hampi is definitely worth a visit. It is like no other place I have been and if you have the opportunity to see it grab it with both hands. You are transported back to a magical time of wealth, splendour and beauty. Once you’re there you can’t help but be enthralled by a forgotten world.

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